187 Gower Street / Speedy's Cafe - Sherlock

SCREENSHOT of Sherlock and Watson meeting up at 221B so Watson can inspect the flat.

As a fan of Arthur Conan Doyle’s Sherlock Holmes books and the related movies and television shows, I wasn’t sure if I was going to like the BBC’s modern take, but I ended up a near rabid fan, I won’t lie. I watched the first set of DVDs enough times the theme song played constantly in my head for months and I could recite the dialogue for the first season in my sleep. Benedict Cumberbatch and Martin Freeman as Sherlock Holmes and John Watson made me just as happy as Basil Rathbone and Nigel Bruce, who were my favorite actors to play the parts up until Steven Moffat and Mark Gatiss made their dream of an updated telling of the tales come true.

And Mark Gatiss plays Mycroft Holmes. It doesn’t get any better!

But this isn’t about the show so much as the location: 187 Gower Street, London which doubled as 221B Baker Street, and Speedy’s Cafe next door. Or at least the facade of the residential door and building doubled for Baker Street. Sherlock and Watson's flat was actually a studio set. Though in the episode "A Scandal in Belgravia," Watson and Mycroft meet inside the cafe to discuss how to tell Sherlock that Irene Adler was dead. (Or was she?)

PHOTO by author, 187 Gower Street and Speedy's Cafe, London 2015.

A quick history lesson

Gower Street itself actually has an interesting history. It was named for Lady Gertrude Leveson, the second wife of the 4th Duke of Bedford. In the late 1700’s, she supervised the layout of the street, which boasts the longest sets of unbroken Georgian terraces in London.

University College London and the Royal Academy of Dramatic Art (RADA) are both located on Gower Street, as well as part of the University College Hospital. Gower was also one of original stops of the London Underground, but the station was renamed Euston Square in 1909.

One of the more notable residents of Gower Street was Charles Darwin who lived with his family at what now would be 100 Gower Street. It was where he made some progress with his theory of natural selection.

More specifically, 187 Gower Street was home to Giuseppi Mazzinni, the Italian politician, journalist and activist for the unification of Italy in 1837. There is a blue plaque commemorating his residence there that was covered up to appear as a lamp on the building while Sherlock was filming.

Speedy’s Cafe is a new addition, in the life of Gower Street. After opening in 2002, the cafe later found fame when the Sherlock series began to film in 2009. Owner Chris Georgiou even played an extra in “The Abominable Bride” though his cafe had became “Speedwell’s Restaurant and Tea Rooms" for the special episode.

PHOTO by author - Speedy's Cafe menu, 2015.

What it means to me

In 2015, I was wandering around London with a friend who had determined which shows and movies I was into at the time and created an itinerary that brought us by foot or by bus to various filming locations, or places important to the fandom itself. She didn’t tell me where I was going ahead of time, and I didn’t ask - the surprise was too much fun!

That morning I made sure I had my borrowed Oyster card and we boarded a bus to begin our adventure. I spent the whole ride taking pictures of passing buildings and asking roughly a million questions along the way. We got off near the Euston station and began to walk. I had my camera pointed at everything. And then she asked, “Do you know where you are?”

I did not. And then I really, really did. There was Speedy’s Cafe up ahead. I might have made a noise only dogs could hear.

After taking some pictures near the door that no longer read 221B, but was still THE DOOR, we ordered tea and pastry inside Speedy’s and sat outside to eat. I wish I could say that I remembered what it was like inside the cafe, but it was pre-caffeine and my brain was pretty much stuck on a loop of, “Sherlock filmed here. I can’t believe I’m here. Sherlock...” At the next table I heard familiar American accents and struck up a conversation. They were also Sherlock fans, in London to see Benedict Cumberbatch in “Hamlet” at the Barbican. We chatted a bit, had breakfast (which was divine - cup of Earl Grey with a warm chocolate croissant that made my taste buds sing), and then continued on, but not without me turning around to take ten more pictures as the red awning got smaller and smaller until it was out of sight.

Sherlock tidbit: in the Pilot episode the cafe next to 221B was called "Mrs. Hudson's Snax 'n' Sarnies."

The Speedy's awning is folded up but still advertising the fact that Breakfast, lunch, and pasta is served in the cafe!

SCREENSHOT of 187 Gower Street using Google Street View.

Best way to virtually visit

So why am I talking about a virtual visit if I've already been there? Because I had so much fun on that trip that I like to "walk” some of the same streets and this is one of my favorites. It just makes me smile. They filmed Sherlock here! Imagine all of the fans watching with their phones out, the street blocked off, cameras and equipment all over, Benedict and Martin, and maybe Una Stubbs (Mrs. Hudson) walking around between takes.

I used to go to Google Maps to wander around London using the Street View, but now I go right to Google Earth and narrow it down. (For you Sherlock fans...)

1. Open the Google Earth app or go to https://www.google.com/earth/ (Click "Launch Earth)

2. Click the magnifying glass icon to search and enter “187 Gower Street, London”

3. Use the + (plus) icon to zoom in

4. Click on the little figure icon to see the blue lines and dots show up indicating a closer view in Street View

5. Click on the blue line to enter Street View

The 3D option will help get a better feel for the cliffs and will pan around to get a 360 degree view of the area. You can go back to the 2D view anytime.

SCREENSHOT of Google Street View of Gower Street and Speedy's Cafe.

Since the Google camera goes all over London, you can use the controls to "walk" the streets yourself. I looked for RADA because Sian Brook, who played Eurus Holmes in the last season, is a 2002 graduate.